Saxophone Equipment guide
What type of saxophone should I buy or rent?
Size (soprano, alto, tenor, baritone sax):
If the the student is in school band then a lot of times the band director will answer this question for them. School bands need a certain number of instruments, since they can’t have 40 trumpets and 1 flute! So students will sometimes get some pressure to choose a particular sax. Alto sax is by far the most common as it fits most hand sizes. But if you have some freedom to choose, my main advice is to go with whichever you feel most passionate about. If you adore the deep tones of a baritone sax, then even a very small handed person (like myself) will find a way to play it. Students can adapt to most sizes but that passion for a particular sound is priceless. Never tell a student they “should” play a particular size for whatever reason, only to follow their inspiration.
Saxophones:
One very important clue about whether you have a good saxophone is in the price. If you go to a store you can easily find good saxophones, if you give them the right price range. BEWARE of cheap new saxophones as the cost comes later when they break and cannot be repaired.
Cheap Amazon saxes under 500$:
If you find saxophones online and they are new for around 350$ then beware! They will play and help you get started, which may be perfect for a young child who may or may not want to play the instrument. But in a few years they will probably break and local repair shops refuse to work on them. The metal is a bit softer than a more expensive one so working on those saxes comes at a risk, which is why repair people simply don’t do it. So they may be good in the beginning just to see, but in a few years you would need to upgrade. Some typical brands are Mendini, Jean-Paul, and Eastrock, but the price gives it away.
It’s important to know that a used saxophone IN GOOD REPAIR will sell for a reasonable amount but still be much better quality than a brand new, but cheap saxophone.
Some good picks under 700$:
If you can, try to rent a good, intermediate saxophone that would sell for 700$. For alto sax most can be rented while some, like baritone sax have restrictions. Some stores will only sell baritones and others only rent. Make sure to ask.
Gemeinhardt: The last time I did a play test with intermediate saxophones, this one was my favorite, even when compared to better overall brands. It is all brass which I think looks good. The weight is heavy and it has a good sound. It is a well known brand which means repair people can easily work on it. Also very important is the keys move smoothly and are easy on small fingers. Several students have purchased this with my recommendation and they are happy.
I compared Gemeinhardt to similarly priced models of Selmer and Yamaha (very good brands) and those intermediate models were not as smooth playing or easy on the fingers. This is my top pick under 700$, if you get it used.
P. Mauriat: I’ve played these and liked them. I wouldn’t personally play them but what I like about them is they are light to hold, have an attractive matte coloring, and the sound comes out VERY easy. This would be good for a young player who usually plays kind of quiet, and has a hard time projecting. Or a smaller sized child. Very easy and responsive.
Yanigasawa: I know this is a very good brand which competes with the big boys. It may be a bit more expensive. I don’t have much experience playing on it.
Yamaha: This may be a top, well known brand but I haven’t liked any of the saxophones I’ve played on. The student models don’t hold up next to other brands and if you are going to an intermediate or professional model you might as well skip it. But that is my opinion and a jazz player may feel differently!
Bundy made by BetterSax: Bundy used to be a laughing stock among serious saxophonists but a few decades ago the company separated from Selmer (who owned it originally.) Recently Bundy partnered with a company called BetterSax, which is a Youtube channel made by a jazz saxophonist. I think he helped them design this new saxophone which is a student model. One of my students brought it in and from holding it I could tell this was a well thought out design. The key mechanisms were well done and in place, something that doesn’t always happen with student models. The weight felt nice and the key action was smooth. This is a promising brand and I look forward to playing on one.
Advanced Brand, pretty much all Selmer:
If you are ready to upgrade a SECOND time you will probably want a Selmer. This is the number one brand in the world and the oldest brand too. I only play on Selmer’s in public, if I can afford it!
Selmer La Voix: My soprano is a La Voix and it is OK, although there are some issues with mechanisms and intonation.
Selmer Super Action Series II: There are other series’ (like Series III) but II seems to be a favorite among classical saxophonists. My alto sax is a Series II and is my Number 1 instrument out of all of them. It is fairly affordable and I haven’t needed to upgrade in 25 years. It can be bought used for probably under 2000$. My parents bought mine in 1998 for 1500$ and it is still perfect!
Selmer Mark 6: This is a vintage, highly sought-after saxophone that is prized among jazz players. Classical players also love it, but the previous model is usually satisfactory. It has a bold, powerful sound. But even though they are all older and used, they sell for around 13,000$.
Selmer Supreme: This is the newest high end saxophone on the market that I’m aware of and probably the best in the world at this point. One of my adult students tried it in NY and fell in love, saying it plays like butter. The keys move really smoothly and low and high notes both just pop right out. I was quite jealous. New ones with brass plating I think sell for 13,000$ but there is a gold plated one that was over 20,000$, which is what she played on.
Mouthpieces:
Before rushing out and buying a new saxophone, first consider if just a mouthpiece upgrade is all you need right now. A good mouthpiece on an OK saxophone still sounds better than the reverse. Mouthpieces are more personal so make sure you know how you want to sound and that you try many of them before you buy. All I can do is give my personal favorites.
Selmer C*: This one is a favorite among classical players, and usually the first one suggested when looking to upgrade. I felt it was too bright for me and always had a buzzy sound I couldn’t get rid of.
Vandoren AL3: I switched to this one after the Selmer C* and it got rid of the buzz, but gave me a slightly muffled sound which couldn’t project as much as I wanted.
Vandoren Profile: This is what I use now as it gives me both the darker sound I want without buzz but also allows me to project over other instruments as well as play into the high range. I’ve been using it for around 3 years now and really like it.
A few things to remember: Check the tip openings on each mouthpiece. A bigger tip opening means a brighter sound. A smaller one means a darker sound. Bright is kind of like an oboe, dark is kind of like a french horn. Second, once you choose a mouthpiece give it months to a year before you finally adapt to it. For the one I use now it needed so much more pressure that I could only play it for 5 to 10 minutes a day for a few months until finally I got through a whole practice session. Also there’s nothing wrong with used ones, though they will be a bit softer and darker than the same model when it’s brand new.
Reeds:
I only use Vandoren Traditional reeds so I can’t give a lot of options here. Usually the store will suggest, or give you, Rico reeds. These are worse quality than Vandoren and keep in mind they are also softer.
Reed sizes can be 1.5, 2, 2.5, 3, 3.5 or 4. This takes them from softest to hardest which means harder reeds take more muscle to play and are more advanced. Different mouthpieces and horns will require different reeds so I’ll just tell you how it was for me. When I first started (in 4th grade) I used a size 1.5. By the end of the year I was on size 2. Around 7th grade, after 3 or so years of playing, I was on a 2.5. Finally around my sophomore year of high school, after around 6 years of playing I was on size 3, which is where I stayed. I’ve noticed that grown ups move faster through the reed sizes as they may have more muscle.
Vandoren reed sizes are different from Rico reed sizes so if you aren’t sure, google “reed size comparison chart” and look at how different reeds compare within different brands. So if you are on a Rico size 2 and you go to a Vandoren size 2, the Vandoren will feel harder. Also, give any reed change 6 months to get used to it as well.
Neckstrap:
Should have a really thick cushion for the neck and a sturdy hook. I recommend the Protec A311P.